Best outdoor auto belay device reddit. There is no case where you can not not be tied in.

Best outdoor auto belay device reddit. However after about two outdoor sessions, or primarily a double rope, whole rope length rappel with the Smart I went out and bought a As usual u/bearbreeder has some great advice below to make sure that you are aware of how best to use an ATC/other belay device before using a grigri as grigris are assisted belay devices, not auto-locking ones. The ATC Guide (specifically the guide), when set up correctly, is an "auto-blocking" (not to be confused with "auto-locking") belay device for belaying a second. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure (edited to reframe in answer of original post! thanks for giving me this space to air my grievances!) I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. These innovative systems allow individuals to climb without a partner by automatically managing the slack and safely controlling descents. Easily choose and compare the Best Auto Belay Device for you all in one place. Dec 5, 2024 · It has slightly more friction than other auto-block devices when belaying the follower (s), so we recommend that the leader takes a belay with the Mega Jul, and the follower is belayed with a different auto-block or “ guide ” style tube device. Jun 1, 2021 · Auto-belay devices became a necessity during COVID because they eliminated the need for a partner. " A friend of mine uses old mattresses under a layer of 5" thick high density upholstery foam under a layer of 1/2 or 3/4in CCF (think cheap sleeping pad material). It has assisted braking but it probably isn't one of the top 3 the assisted braking devices on the market. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. Feb 22, 2020 · How Do Auto Belays Work? An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. One of the more widely sold auto belays in North America was recalled due to a design flaw that caused some of the internal parts to wear more quickly than anticipated. Here are our in-depth reviews. What this means is that if your second/follower falls, the rope will bind in the device on its own. The auto-belay system has the cord clipped at an anchor point on the ground. The pilot wont let you rappel. Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. . I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. If you are a fan of the GRIGRI design but don't want the auto locking feature, then have a look at the Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. Designed for the climbing industry, thousands of TRUBLUEs are in use around the world in climbing gyms, ropes courses, family entertainment centers and more. Weighing less than 10oz and holding up to 4KN (4000 kg), the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender is your one stop shop multi-functional descender. Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. 3. If I'm going to be doing any free climbing as part of the route I'm doing solo, I use a Silent Partner as feeding rope manually through the solo belay device is a HUGE PITA when free climbing. Check out our review of belay devices to see how it ranks versus competitors. I much prefer the ones at Alexandria as Sterling pumps my arms out too fast, but they can be good in a pinch. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing     Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing Jul 2, 2018 · Wild Country released an innovative belay device, the Revo, the first bidirectional belay device with a true auto-locking mechanism. Four different climbers have played the role of lead reviewer of belay devices over that time, and it is remarkable how little variance they have found in their testing. Nov 11, 2023 · The easiest belay device to use incorrectly. However, with all gyms requiring GriGris inside, I have started to think more about getting something with a brake assist for ice climbing. And yes we are scared of falling. I'm just getting into outdoor climbing and looking for my first assisted braking belay device. See full list on outdoorgearlab. a pulley with a toothed cam to allow the rope to move one direction but not another. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. The safest belay devices would be stuff like the grigri or trango cinch, but they sacrifice handling. Gonna be looking forward to multipitching in the future, but neet a suitable belay device with guide mode. There is no case where you can not not be tied in. Dec 5, 2024 · The Wild Country Revo is a complicated looking belay device that actually performs very simply in the hands of the belayer. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is the best active assisted-braking belay device for newer climbers and feels very familiar to anybody who has used a GriGri before. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed I'll have to change the belay device for singlepitch because the german alpine club now recommends auto-blocks or assisted breaking devices. The TRUBLUE Auto Belay is the only auto belay to utilize magnetic eddy current braking technology, which offers benefits in addition to reliability and cyclic endurance. I’m looking at a BD XP Guide and Singing Rock Shuttle, but I can’t seem to pick. Just wondering what everyone else’s Grigri. You unclip it, and tie it to yourself If you don't clip it to yourself, it reels to the top, you look like an idiot. climbers failing to clip in. For outdoors / trad / sport climbing, I typically go with the Guide. TRUBLUE Auto Belays offer the widest weight and height ranges of any modern auto belay system. E. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. This means that belayers are much Feb 12, 2024 · In terms of the best belay device, the Petzl Grigri 2 is a no brainer. If you do clip it to your belay loop, you climb, it reels up, you come back down safely. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no This review is based on months of testing with 17 of today's most popular belay devices, but it rests on a 12-year foundation that goes back to when we first started examining the product category. Head Rush's patented magnetic braking mechanism allows each device to adjust to each climber weight and create a consistent descent experience for everyone alike. It could probably decided soft vs. I am looking into purchasing my first harness and belay device – during the course we were taught to belay with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot and were also introduced to resistance devices like the Ohm for bigger weight differences. Dec 2, 2021 · How Does Lead Auto-Belay Work? Skeptics, perform your finger warmup, navigate to whichever snide Reddit climbing forum you frequent, and get ready to type. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I got the Alpine Smart with the intent on using it as an outdoor belay device since you can use it for double rope rappels and for top belays. It saves time and is safer imo. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground. The operation is similar to a traditional ATC and it's light, with a brake assist for lead belaying. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. Rappelling with a Mega or Giga Jul - your thoughts? The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). Almost every accident involving an auto belay has been due to, e. P. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. I was at the gym the day after the accident, and it was business as usual with all the auto belays in use, except the route where accident happened which I noticed was missing the auto belay. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Bend Rock Gym needs to provide information about why this happened, including the specific mode of failure. Seems cool for indoor climbing though, maybe some gyms will be using it in a few years. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. S. don't use the belay loop with a rope. Sportrock also has a Facebook group to help find belay partners at either. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. I just got into climbing and have gotten myself both top rope and lead certified through a certified course. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. g. We can be confident of that Local WA gyms remove auto belays due to what I can only believe is fear from litigation due to climbers misuse AFAIK, there's been only a handful, at most, of incidents where auto belay devices have failed. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. This auto belay is designed Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. We feature 3 auto-belay devices on our 35’ walls, an IFSC certified 15m speed wall, and a belay device isn’t going to make it safe to climb with someone who can have an unexpected seizure. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. The smart is my favourite belay device. It is also the simplest, and the most affordable. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). I'm very paranoid about belaying accidents, and would like to find a device that can be used as a backup for a belay, to lock on the rope if the primary belay device fails and sets the rope free (whether due to user error, or being knocked unconscious due to rockfall etc. 7 to 10. The device can be used with a wide range of rope diameters, from 8. But rope soloing is certainly not for beginners. May 28, 2021 · Grasp auto-belays' benefits in climbing: no belayer needed, ensuring safety, independence, and accessibility for climbers of all levels. The reason for this is because when the auto belay is connected from the top of the wall to the ground, it is under a heavier load on it's coil than if the auto was left "up" (with the lanyard just barely hanging out of the auto belay canister). Biggest Wall of Them All Our outdoor wall features 164 ft of adrenaline-fueled climbing! Climb To The Top Located on the fascia of the Whitney Peak Hotel, the big wall can be lead climbed as a two pitch sport climb, or, you can purchase our “Climb to the Top" package and top rope the wall in one shot. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. and metal work can go through the belay loop. In the comments I see a lot of people saying that they prefer non-breaking belay devices, which seems pretty obvious, but other people say that auto-breaking devices are safer, because they will usually break even if the belayer doesn't keep their hand on the brake. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. The secret is our friction-free, magnetic braking technology, which gives the softest, safest, most consistent catch available on the market today. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. Auto belay devices have revolutionized indoor and outdoor climbing, providing safety and independence for climbers of all skill levels. The pro and con of autobelay is your safety is pretty much all in your hands! Jul 11, 2024 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. Arrestyd Ltd have worked very hard through their knowledge and experience in the market to manufacture the products with what the target markets are looking for. Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. What gear is needed to use the autobelay system? Is purchasing used equipment a poor choice? Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. trueI was wondering what assisted braking devices folks like for ice climbing? I have always used a Petzl reverso when ice climbing before. Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. Will be weird to belay from the top with. What brand in particular. Is there a passive device like the mega jul, atc pilot, or something else that folks like? Basically the best belay device is the one you feel is like an extension of your own body, you should be comfortable using it without having to think about it. auto belay ?? New to climbing and the public wall has multiple autobelay systems. e. The MicroTrax is a progress-capture pulley; i. It offers several features that many will see as improvements over the standard GriGri, including an anti-panic handle and two different modes for top-rope and lead belaying. The carabiner somehow got pushed up against a hold and unclipped from the belay loop leaving the climber stranded mid-route. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Verso is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side and is the lightest device in our review. Permanently mounted auto belay devices cannot be shipped back to the manufacturer for maintenance or re-certification, so technicians must come in person for the regular inspections. Benefits of this type of climbing are that individuals can climb more frequently, more independently, and for longer periods of time. It functions as a tube device when belaying, and then allows you to belay up a partner in guide mode from the top, and it allows you rappel. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore What is the best belay device for an intermediate level climber? I've been considering the mammut smart belay device as I don't want anything clunky like a grigri, but I am open to suggestions. TruBlue Autobelay instruction manual page 20: "NEVER CLIMB WITHOUT BEING CORRECTLY ATTACHED Ensure the carabiner is attached to belay loop of the harness and the latch is fully closed and the gate engaged before starting to climb. Rope Soloing The common rope soloing activities are called top roping and lead belaying. Ensure that the gym you climb at gets their devices sent out for recertification at least annually and that the devices are CSA, ANSI and/or EN/CE certified. Basically, my old atc has no teeth, no wall attachment and is hard to catch falls with. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. 5 mm range. A close call that I am aware of with an auto belay was due to someone's t-shirt and/or belay loop getting stuck in the carabiner gate and preventing the gate from fully closing and autolocking. [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. hard based on the amount of rope it's put out, but it won't know about any other hazards on a route. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. WHY DO CLIMBING FACILITIES USE THEM? An auto belay device provides climbers with a safe, simple, and accessible option for climbing routes that would usually require a rope, without the need for a belay partner. I had a hard time finding any information out there from actual contractors who work with them and their experiences when I was deciding to accept a contract with them. I took a leap and decided to accept. You can use it for a double rope rappel, and belay one or two climbers following. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. At the least be sure to have other climbers around when she’s belaying you. While many assisted braking New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. All the belay devices tested Jul 21, 2016 · Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. I started working as a contractor for Belay doing virtual assistant work in early February 2023. NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. Regarding the rope/belay idea, what would be wrong with a standard rope solo setup like this? Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. Doesn't matter a whole ton but I like that Edelrid ones are made of steel vs aluminum in most other brands. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. I want something easy, lightweight and that will last me a long I like to lead belay with the Mammut Smart, top rope belay with the GriGri and I keep an ATC with an auto-locking biner on my harness when I'm climbing outside for rappelling. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. Most belay devices should have information on the intended rope size so I would double check that your rope fits. 2025's Top 5 Best Auto Belay Device Top Rated and Reviewed. 1. The Trango Cinch is Trango's old assisted belay device. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • 274 votes, 101 comments. This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). Sterling has two, although both are on fairly negative walls. If you don't like the brake assist on rappel like some people, you can flip it, and it'll act like a regular ATC. Check out the poll and feel free to So the best handling belay device would probably be the petzl reverso 2 (with the loop for autoblock mode), but it doesn't have any breaking capabilities when you're belaying the leader or using a toprope. Dec 22, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device Key Specs of the ATC Variations of the ATC Pros and Cons of the ATC The Petzl GriGri Belay Device Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. I'm sure the instructions that come with it include all sorts of CYA lawyer stuff, however. I know I'm working on similar autobelay feelings! Remember, autobelays are statistically safer than a human belay IF they're used properly - The device is much less likely to break and drop me than my belayer is to drop their break strand, for example. Must use a tube style belay device for the test (no assisted braking devices until after you have passed the test) Must be able to catch one unannounced fall from your climber Hey Tundrawolf_ This is from wikipedia: [. People who don’t know what they are doing use these without holding brake end of rope all the time because they falsely believe it is “auto-locking”. Some prefer high friction ones, some prefer ones where it's easier to feed rope when you need it, there's always a trade off. Some tension in the rope through the device is actually required to ensure it locks- this means never letting go of the brake strand. You made an excellent choice! Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I was thinking it has a bit more of a fall before the device starts to lowers you down. I only found out about the accident because a friend that works there told me about it a few what do you meant by auto-belay device? an auto belay is a device in the gym to belay without a partner. TRUBLUE’s self-regulating magnetic braking system is the result of years of research, development, and testing. They play a critical role in outdoor recreation and indoor climbing gyms, providing a controlled and safe descent for climbers. Since you won’t be having any support from below, you’ll need to understand the harness system in-depth. The home of Climbing on reddit. I think you may be referring to an assisted belay device such as a grigri. ]though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. I somehow didn't previously realize that the device is placed on a rail up there and that it can move left and right. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. The DynoEdge range offers an excellent range of leisure products for climbing wall gyms, adventure parks, high ropes courses, home uses and much more. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. I tested it to see if it holds up to its claim as the "safest We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Any opinions or other options on this? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Gunny-Guy • Additional comment actions The reverso is made for multipitch climbing. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. I wasn’t a huge fan. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. Edelrid Mega Jul. Here's what you need to know about auto belay devices: TruBlue recommends clipping the belay loop when using their auto-belay devices. Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. Alexandria has three normal ones and a small beginner one. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. Auto belay devices are essential safety equipment used in climbing and rappelling activities. Sounds pretty simple right? If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Advanced Climbers Gym vs Reasons to choose TwinPoint auto belay device: The best auto belay price on the market Unique double fall protection system Option of descending and webbing retraction speed settings If OP is supportive of auto-locking belay devices but posted this anyway as “dissatisfying”, then they’re just being disingenuous, and trying to stoke controversy. Very good, very light, but impossible to release under a load. com May 28, 2024 · We rated each device based on factors like ease of use, versatility, safety, and longevity—because when you're hundreds of feet off the deck, you need gear that won't let you down. ). So that's how it pulls in slack. Then the auto belay manufacturer couldn't prove that a problem with their device creating too much slack (which they knew about) didn't contribute to the fall (assumption being that with less force the bad clip possibly could have held). I'm considering the Smart or the Salewa Ergo. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs It seems like using this as a lead belay, you'd miss out on the ability of the belayer to judge how you need to be caught to make your fall safe. My girlfriend isn't very confident belaying me on lead with an ATC so I feel like this will help us out. Rope solo lead climbing is best used when aid climbing in my experience. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. Both Sportrocks have auto belays. Same idea as a normal crash pad where the different density foams help prevent bottoming out. Lightweight, rugged and auto locking, this thing is build to for anything. I was using auto-belay today for the first time (technically second, but my first time was learning to lead while also tied to auto-belay just to feel more secure, so I had two ropes holding me not just the auto-belay). 5mm 289 votes, 29 comments. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. The TRUBLUE™ Auto Belay is the next generation of indoor and outdoor climbing wall auto belays. , the Petzl attaché has a pear Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. dpmmab hpd bhlao helf sopyu fycrbk bwfi papgxy pmpsxc iqrczi

26th Apr 2024