Best sling for quad anchor reddit. Was wondering if using the girth hitch is fine or if looping the sling around the anchor and tieing each loop end together with a figure 8 is materially stronger? Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. Realistically though, having it being non extending is much more important. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. -a 180cm dyneema sling to make anchors works for the above if you’re always using two closely spaced bolts. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. I've been climbing for awhile now. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Called the "Quad" and is supposed to be best compromise between equalization and non-extension. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. If leading in blocks, I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. Shorter slings (30cm/12 in. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. I usually only use a single open-loop sling to anchor myself in, but I guess it's probably safer and doesn't really hurt anything to have more redundancy. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Most of the anchors/belays were at hanging or People seem to be super into having their anchors self equalizing lately. The two Disadvantages - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Oct 13, 2021 · I do like the idea behind the quad for top roping because of the self equalizing characteristic of it, but then again I like the masterpoint because of the shelf space. I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. Sometimes with a regular cordelette or slings. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. It is also the best way to stock up on low cost, expendable and customizable length sling material for emergency use The problem with learning to tie a single type of anchor such as your pre-tied quad is that you lack the fundamentals to adapt to a different scenario (in this case, your need to extend the anchor) efficiently. Oct 29, 2023 · Dyneema slings are sewn together, meaning it's just one less thing to think about. Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. Accommodates weirdly spaced bolts. 240 dynema slings are also fantastic for gear anchors too. I even add a single wire gate onto the quad to clip into quickly when reaching the anchor in case someone wants to lead it and the TR gets pulled down. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Here you go, an Amga video demonstrating a quad anchor. More of a pain than draws, but I like how it adjusts to loading direction, and the steelies are nice for keeping ropes (and hands) clean if you don't mind the extra weight If I intend on using a nylon sling as a PAS for simple anchor work at single pitch TR routes, do I girth hitch it to the belay loop or the tie in points? My gut says tie in points. I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. It helps keep everything neat and you don’t kill your back bending down to top belay or pull up rope. BD draws. I recently started climbing outdoors. My question is why are you leaving all of that gear behind and not rapping off the chains? The quad can also be used to easily anchor into 3 or 4 pieces, or quickly taken apart to set up more complex anchors. trueI have some 6mm cord leftover from my quad anchor, can I use it to make a PAS? FWIW, I ordered some of these knock-off anchors from TEMU and although they appear to be identical in appearance, they don't appear to have the same coating in the nylon strap. I think my best bet for multi-pitch is a masterpoint anchor and a quad for single pitch climbs to run laps on. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. a Redditor directed me to the HowNotToHighline YouTube channel. It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling pictured) using an overhand or figure eight instead of tying two overhands on each side of your master point. When making anchors my go to when possible is to girth hitch my anchor points and then build with a quad or equalette depending on how much extension I need. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. You shouldn't aim to use regular quickdraws for an anchor as they are too short. Get helmets. If like bags of any kind this sub is for you! If you have lots of backpacks, purses, wallets, etc and are ashamed to admit it this sub is for you! If like you to constantly talk about bag designs then this sub is for you! Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Wrong sub but yeah I have a dedicated 7mm quad. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. Dec 16, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. Gear placement is mostly for worst case scenarios, if it requires you can do shorter quick pitches, slinging a rock, belay your parnter up the crux with a munter and keep moving. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. com Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. Long enough for most gear anchors used single or v-clove style. With that said, both anchors are perfectly safe in most situations, especially if the two bolts are bomber. jg If it's a larger group, and/or the group is climbing above limit, a quad made from two double length slings is nice to have. More often about once a week. For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. I told him that your pelvis would break in an 11 kN fall (that's what my instructor told me anyway), so if anything happened to us that would bring almost 15 kN of force on the anchor, you're basically talking about if our bodies are still attached to It seems like most people recommend using two slings and anchoring into both bolts. It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, or teaching a man to fish. Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. I use slings for a lot of my anchors and will make sure to do that now in situations where a factor 2 fall could be possible. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. Totally with you on everything except the overhand, which is a royal pain in the ass to untie once you're done why not use a figure eight? 252 votes, 98 comments. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. You should always have a sling just in case so you can manufacture something more appropriate if needed. I keep a simple kit, so here’s what I’d carry to start: 60m rope with ground tarp, one set of draws, 5 locking carabiners (HMS build), a couple of non-locking carabiners, two nylon 120cm slings (usually my PAS), two dyneema 120cm slings (usually to build a quad anchor), two 60cm dyneema slings (other PAS or to extend draws), a prussik cord or hollowblock, 18 feet of 7mm cordalette Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Better to put it up higher so that you can comfortably stand on the ledge while weighting the anchor. i use this one as a “normal” 2 or 3 piece anchor Looks like 2 120cm slings tied into a quad with a girth hitch master point. Ergonomics wise, it looks like it’s pretty low vs the ledge you are standing on. Make sure you know what the triangle of death is before considering to use quick draws for anchors. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. I love quad anchors. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. I will generally knot a power point in a double length sling or use two slings if the bolts are pretty symmetric. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. This article explains how it can be used to rig two and three-piece anchors. Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more -two 240cm slings to tie into mini quad anchors or equaliser trad anchors (assuming you’ll be multi pitching, otherwise one is fine). I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. One deep rabbit-hole later I’m emerging with questions about two possible anchor designs which recognize knots in dyneema slings = 50% reduction in strength and thus seek to eliminate them: Anchor #1 (a. I like that it's dynamic, and (for what it's worth) I like that it's easier to equalize than with slings. The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. I used to build anchors out of slings, now I almost always build anchors out of rope. ). 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. The quad is currently the best technique for building self-distributing anchors. I don't recall the /r/ManyBaggers is for folks who like all things that are bags. and shorter) are a tweener size that wouldn't be used often; some climbers use them for tying off pitons. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. The price on the MS4 sling is a little high, but I spent about as much on the Peak Design sling, and I didn't find that one nearly as comfortable, and I got tired of the anchor mounts banging against my camera and scratching it up. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. In researching anchor designs, pros, cons, etc. It also grinds my gears to see gumbies with a gargantuan 240cm sling quad anchor and the YUGEST lockers you've ever seen slung over their shoulders questing up a 5. They make things super easy. I don't use a quad, equalette or ACR 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. You're only clipped into one piece of the sling on the masterpoint on your example, whereas with the quad, you're clipped to 2 or 3. The quad is really nice to use on a bolted multi with two bolt anchors. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Also, the locking It looks good from a safety perspective. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. -1 quad length dyneema sling - pre-tied as a quad (adjust as needed for your anchor) -1 triple length dyneema sling. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. You can easily store this system on your harness. Absolutely the best institutional anchor. Get some pear shape For group toproping with bolted anchors, I like to use a cordelette or quad length sling, 2 locking carabiners on the bolts, and an autolocking steel carabiner for the rope. The ACMG standard in Canada for a two bolt anchor is to tie an equalized figure eight and top rope through a locker in the masterpoint. 5mm. For most applications, self equalizing anchors are over rated. Thanks for the info! Reply reply More repliesMore replies wildfyr • Most people I know use EDK for their cord anchor Reply reply [deleted] • Quads without knots violates the "redundancy" priciniple of SERENE anchors If you built a quad anchor without knots, and any part of the single was cut, the entire anchor would fail. And I don't want a bulky knot preventing the rope from equalizing. Is the Generally for mutlipitch or just hanging out at an anchor. It’s a good idea to get a mentor or guide to give you additional or specific training with anchors if you find you have a lot of questions. I'm sure there are some crazy people who take some sick pride in cloving into single pitch sport anchors and doing something weird to set up to clean, but generally you'll want a PAS/Sling/Draws/something not rope for that. Choose a slightly wider 240cm sling, the very skinny dynema can weld the knots so tightly they are hard to untie. (Beaver St. The climber uses a clove hitch on a single locker to anchor himself, and non locking biners for the anchors itself. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the TR Sling Anchors. Do any of you guys double up your anchors like that? I was also thinking of using one dyneema sling and one nylon. Fold the sling in half so you have a total of four strands Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Okay. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. Learn all about it here. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. For single pitch sport, I usually do a sliding x on a dyneema sling with 3 lockers. ) are good for looping large rocks and for connecting three protection points to make an anchor. A couple of my thoughts. If I decided to get a back up, I'd have no issue getting the MS3. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. I'm new to the AR scene. If you really want to equalize two bolts try the Quad. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. I wouldn't want to fall, slide 12" or more to the knot and slam into it. Extra-long slings (180-240cm/72-96 in. I mostly use one of those skinny Mammut 240 slings pre-tied in a quad, with a pair of steel lockers for the rope. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. One locker in each leg to the bolts and two lockers as a master point for the rope. Wall, San Francisco) For backing up with slings I'm basically following in the footsteps of the highlining community, sliding x with dyneema static sling backups are their go-to anchor. May 31, 2021 · 2 x Locking Carabiners Tips: The quad anchor can be pre-tied before heading onto the wall, the range of self equalization in the quad allows it to clip onto a-lot of bolted situations without the need to re tie it. If you use a normal setup with an overhand or figure 8 knot on your sling, there will be a strength reduction on the sling as well. 319K subscribers in the ar15 community. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. This can shock-load the remaining piece (s). Exceptions: last pitch and will be rappelling (in which case, I go direct to a bolt and link the two with a draw, then feed the rope to pre-rig the rap), leading in blocks (use any sort of sling anchor, they're all fine), or when I'm setting up a top rope (two QD's in many cases, equalette, quad, etc. Welcome to r/AR15! Share you builds, ask relevant questions, play nice etc. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). Dec 1, 2023 · When I build a quad, I often use two bolts for anchor points, a quad length (240cm) sewn sling, two non-lockers for the legs, and lockers for the master point. Redundant or Complicated? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment cycling_sender • Additional comment actions Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. Given a standard 60cm sling for a two-piece Sliding X, or a 120cm sling for a three-piece, what kind of additional force is generated, if any, on the anchor due to the extension in the system when one piece fails? How far off-axis does loading need to be in order to weight a single leg of a cordelette, in both a two and three-piece anchor? Aug 18, 2019 · Tying Your Own Nylon Slings It is possible to buy tubular Nylon webbing in spool lengths online or at your local climbing shop. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. I assume theres pros and cons to both setups, but what would they be? Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! For EVERY route you climb, consider the climbing/fall zone below the anchor, and adjust the limiting knots closer to the center point to cover only that much movement and reduce extension. I like it a lot, and it's more versatile than I think it often gets credit for. I just did the longest route (time wave zero) I have ever had to rappel and I had a few complaints about using a quad at hanging belays and difficultly with body sizes/reach issues between me and my partner. Read the wording on the sterling ropes website regarding 6mm cord (link below). I’m cool with all of that. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. Where is the best location to mount your rifle sling? Near the front of hand guard, or closer to the receiver. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. I will have to try both! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. I use big bd lockers to grab the bolts and edelrid lockers with steel wear surface for the rope since it ends up getting tr'd on. If swapping leads, I most often anchor with the rope. Edit: To add, for sport / top rope purposes, I would actually recommend a quad anchor tied from a cordalette over this anchor you've made. 7. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. That configuration of the cord is a new-ish rigging method, discussed in the new edition of John Long's climbing anchors book, and taught in many intro classes nowadays. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about I try for 3 pieces but will work with 2 if I determine they are really good. I've noticed people mounting their sling closer to the tip of the gun by the end of the barrel, and others mounting it closer to the receiver. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. What are your go to methods/anchors for the way down on a route with two bolt rap anchors (rings or chains maybe that changes your answer). The MS3 is very similar and almost half the price. If you're using bolted anchors that aren't already connected by chain, I'd just throw a quickdraw between the bolts for redundancy and call it a day. Opinions? A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. a. Reply reply TCclimbsOccasionally •. At two bolt belays when swapping leads, I use the rope 99% of the time. The plastic anchor might be the weak point but I don't know what type of thermoplastic is used. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • Gotcha, so really only approaching danger in a factor 2 scenario. This allows you to cut the exact length of sling that you would prefer, and is the most economical way of outfitting yourself with the needed slings. . Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? Quad axis loading on a D shaped locker is a 25% reduction in strength. k. I‘m going sport multipitching in a few weeks and was considering making a pair of quad anchors for me and my partner to just clip onto the anchor bolts so save building an anchor as we go. With two bolts, equalization is a low priority and sliding-xes actually equalize pretty poorly. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two Slinging rocks with slings or the rope itself is a great way to save on gear placement, as is building anchors with the rope. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. in other cases). Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. Strength: in a quad, all these materials would probably be fine, but 7+ mm cord or dyneema is the way to go. If your crag has a bunch of vertically hanging anchors, my advice is to get 30' of cord and tie a quad. I once knew a guy who refused to tie any knots or hitches in the slings in anchors because he didn't want them weakened below the 22 kN rating. Figured out how to setup a top rope anchor from a bunch of YouTube videos and went climbing for the first time outside. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. qcark ejlfmc ozkucm ozm jieyr llr zppo xzwyc ndsbt ylehqr